How It Should Fit: The Neck and Collar of a Men's Suit Jacket
Sticking Your Neck Out
Can be a fine and noble thing to do, says Topper. But it should always be metaphorical and over a point of principle, never literal and over a roll of ill-fitting material.
Ill-fitting jacket collars are not always so apparent at first sight. But getting the right fit on the jacket collar is extremely important as part of assuring those refined looks you undoubtedly seek. Topper’s view is clear: a pleasing collar will always incorporate the elegant lines that indicate a truly well tailored jacket. So how do we judge perfection in the well-cut jacket collar?
Topper says jacket collars should align with the line of your shirt collar. There should be no gap between the shirt collar and the jacket and the jacket should be situated half way up the shirt collar showing some, but not all, of it.
If the fit is right you can and will always avoid the following inconvenient and style damaging issues.
"The Jacket Ate The Shirt Collar"
Help Me Topper: I have to buy shirts with really big collars in order for my jacket to rest behind my shirt on my shoulders.
Topper’s Diagnosis: The jacket is sitting too high on the shoulders, in turn forcing the collar up too high.
Topper’s Top Tips: Find a jacket with a wider back measurement, allowing the jacket collar to rest more easily against the shirt collar.
"The Over The Top"
Help Me Topper: My jaket collar keeps getting stuck under my shirt collar on the back of my neck.
Topper’s Diagnosis: The shoulders of your jacket are too large.
Topper’s Top Tip: You've likely selected a size too large to gain the extra length in the jacket. Always take care to select a jacket that fits correctly across the shoulders, like the custom sizes available at Westport Big & Tall
"The Collar Canyon"
Help Me Topper: There is a gap – a chasm, actually - between the jacket collar and the shirt collar.
Topper’s Diagnosis: There are a number of potential causes of this problem. The most common is that the jacket collar is too big for the neck circumference. This issue can however be down to posture: holding your neck forward or standing with your arms back can contribute.
Topper’s Top Tip: Try suits from different makers to find a cut that really works for you. In particular, seek out a style where the collar and upper back sit comfortably on the neck and make sure the shoulders are not tight or restrictive.